The purpose of this post is to inspire Madeira hiking . . . or why not.
Story: Four Days; Three Hikes; Two Bars; One Fire
We stayed four days in picturesque Paul do Mar, population 635.
Popular among surfers, backpackers, hikers, and holiday makers, the elongated village is sandwiched between cliffs and the sea.
Our January stay was more rural than Funchal (link), warmer than São Vicente (link), thus perfect hiking.
Paul do Mar’s economy is fishing and agriculture (banana plantations, sugar cane).
Geographic Isolation
“Peopled” in 1636, access was via boat or footpath until the late 1960’s when rough roads opened for vehicles. It took decades for these slow and dangerous roads to be replaced by motorways with tunnels. In 2022 expressways and a state of the art tunnel, length 1,880 meters, were opened to mitigate the risk of landslides.
Driving from São Vicente to Paul do Mar, we chose the 45-minute VE route rather than ER roads from Porto Moniz that “stretch like a worm through vertical mountains” – National Geographic.
VE (Via Expresso) roads are straight through the mountains, one tunnel after another; ER roads (Estrada Regional) are curvy and steep.
Three Historical Hikes
We walked two precipitous footpaths and one levada (irrigation canal).
Historically, PR19 and Fajã da Ovelha were used to trudge up the mountains to reach fields and plantations. The paths zigzag up steep cliffs with sheer curves encircling deep ravines. The only access being footpaths, produce and products were carried up and/or down . . . to villages and the sea to trade.
Hike #1) PR19 – Paul do Mar to Prazeres
The PR19 trail was impressive, with a vertiginous slope of 500 meters, and 2600 steps cut into the hill. I lost count, but I made it!
The path starts with steep stone steps behind the marina on the east end of Paul do Mar; stopping to take a breath (often) the views were incredible. Tagged as moderately challenging, the steepness made it super tough.
(“Oh god, not another step. What was I thinking? No way. Ok, just to the top of that next switchback, then I quit.”)
At the top, a turn-around in Prazeres (translation – pleasures). The descent was wicked hard on knees but oh, so fast. Don’t do it in the rain.
Hike #2) Fajã da Ovelha
This unmarked trail followed steep switchbacks visible from the bars on the west side of town. The stairs and paths are rocky, uneven, and a bit slippery. Hike incline: 900 meters up to quiet rural living at the top.
The viewpoint, Vereda dos Zimbreiros, Path of the Junipers, overlooked the Atlantic Ocean, Paul do Mar, and continued to Fajã da Ovelha.
Hike #3) Levada Nova – Amazing Valley Views
Levadas are irrigation canals used since the 16th century. Paths alongside provide easy hiking with stunning views; however, the paths are narrow with steep drop-offs, not enjoyable if you have a fear of heights.
Levada Nova is flat and about 10 kilometers long starting in Lombada, a small village connected to Ponta do Sol.
Sunset and Bars
Every evening was sunset and poncha time at Maktub Pub or Bar de Pedro, where the west-end road ends.
Fire! A Few Months Later
In October 2023, fires raged in hard-to-reach areas from Prazeres to Fajã da Ovelha and north towards Porto Moniz, damaging our beautiful hiking areas.
To see previous posts about Madeira, see links:
- Madeira – Funchal (and Trail PR8 – Ponta de Sao Laurenço)
- São Vicente (Porto Moniz, Seixal Sea Pools, Fanal Forest)
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Travel Broadly - Marlene & Steve 
Oh my heart! Spectacular hikes – and story title too! The little town adjacent to the towering mountain reminded me a little of Hallstatt in Austria. Glorious! Thank you for sharing the beauty. xo
I do so love the towering mountains! Austria is so accessible from here…but maybe next year! (just not in the winter.)