Juxtaposition: two distinctly dissimilar things side by side to bring out their differences.
Lanzarote Part 1 (Click to read) thrilled me with craters, lava fields and wastelands; This post, Part 2, highlights clever (and strange) volcanic vineyards and the transformation of volcanic formations into stunning attractions – all things integrated with nature.
More Steve’s cup of tea/wine.
CONTENTS
Spain’s Lanzarote Island, 60 miles from Africa, is windy, with moderate temperatures, few clouds and less than 6 inches of annual rain. Three hundred years ago rich soil and abundant grain fields covered much of Lanzarote. But KA-WHAM! Six years of powerful eruptions, 1730-1736, deposited layers of lava and ash leaving hundreds of gaping craters. See Lanzarote #1 – Volcanic Violence
Vineyards Among Volcanoes
A Valley Surrounded by Craters – A must see to believe wine region
After the eruptions, farmers had to get creative to reach fertile soil. Fields of grain were gone, but planting vines in pits or trenches transformed it into a unique wine region, that literally “rose from the ashes”.
How It’s Done:
- Digging 2-4 meters through the ash to reach fertile soil, a single grapevine or fruit tree is planted in a funnel-shaped pit (hoyo).
- The layer of volcanic ash (picón) in the hoyo absorbs moisture from dew or infrequent rainfall like a sponge, prevents evaporation, maintains humidity and keeps the soil at a constant temperature.
- Low stone walls (zocos) protect the vines from erosion and serve as windbreaks. They trap every drop of moisture and retain heat in the soil, creating a microclimate that promotes the ripening of the grapes.
- Vines are trained along the ground. All the work is done by hand, including harvest in July and August. (In January the vines were just beginning to sprout.)
Over centuries, valley farmers have created a moonscape of mini-craters and trenches crawling up the sides of giant craters. Awestruck! Pit after pit creates a visual honeycomb as far as you can see.
TIPS
- Visit: La Geria (geria means “hollow”). Skip the tastings poured for busloads of tourists. Spring for a glass of reserva.
- Wine: Stratvs Vineyard, Drink Finca de Uga (Syrah)
- Eat: at Bodegas Stratvs at Aljibe Del Obispo (The Bishop’s Cistern)
- Wine: Bodegas Los Bermejos, Bermeji Listán Negra Maceración Carbónica
- Hike: Guardilama Volcano Peak. You’ll see thousands of zocos, and whole island views. 3 hours, 8 km (5mi), 600 meters (1,985 ft.) high.
Cultural Milieu – Harmony in a Volcanic Ecosystem
Lanzarote’s exotic/esoteric attractions owe much to César Manrique, 1919 – 1992, artist, architect and environmentalist. He influenced development with strict aesthetic rules to preserve Lanzarote’s traditional identity.
César Manrique transformed volcanic formations into the top attractions of Lanzarote:
Cueva (Cave) de los Verdes, Developed 1964
Lanzarote’s first major tourist attraction explores caves inside one of the world’s longest (7km) 3,000-year-old lava tube.
Jameos del Agua, Developed 1968
A “jameo” is a collapsed lava tube. Inside the jameo is an underground lake with “jameitos”, which are thumbnail size blind albino crabs found nowhere else on earth.
In the tunnels Manrique built a grotto with a pool, gardens, restaurant, bar, and theatre.
Mirador del Río, 1971
An “oh my god” lookout point/cafe camouflaged by lava rock atop the massive, windy Famara cliffs.
TIP: Drive the long and winding road; or hike 6-miles from Haria, beware of the wind.
Lagomar, 1970’s – What Money Can Do
It’s jaw-dropping fun to walk through this Arabian style house built into a lava quarry. The whitewashed walls, winding staircases, hidden alcoves follow the lava’s irregular shapes. Conceived by César Manrique, designed by Jesús Soto.
Actor Omar Sharif lost the house in a bridge game just two days after purchasing it.
Jardin de Cactus, 1990
From an old lava landfill, Manrique built a garden with over 4000 cacti, 500 species from five continents.
César Manrique Foundation/Museum
Manrique’s former residence is set within a lava field in Haria, the Volcano House is in Tahiche, both near Teguise. His personal design vision was modern, yet integrated architecture with nature. Photo Credits: fcmanrique.org
Teguise
All roads (and we didn’t miss many) lead to Teguise in the middle of the island and its traditional Canarian balconies and doors.
I was fascinated by the statue of The Diabletes of Teguise (Little Devil). During Carnaval, wearing handbells and a horned mask, “it” creeps into the town square chasing the local kids and bopping them on the head with a wooden stick and a goatskin bag. Fun for all.
Tip: Eat at La Puera Verde in nearby Haria. I ate my first mussels!
SUMMARY: Why Visit?
Hiking, bicycling (huge!), watersports (the windy type). Home to one of the world’s most challenging Ironman competitions. (La Santa Ironman).
We spent a week . . . hoping to return. (See previous post – Lanzarote, Part 1)
Want to see more wine images? Click Here, a video from Bodega El Grifo.
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Travel Broadly - Marlene & Steve 
Absolutely mind blowing scenes! Thank you for sharing the beauty of your travels. Feels like I just took a vacation. xo
Surreal – all of it! What a fun, quirky place and you captured it well.