During an October trip to Açores, we took a break from touring the east and west sides of São Miguel to spend one day in Ponta Delgade. The old-town square is surrounded by charming black and white buildings with narrow cobblestone streets, and has a rich 15th century history.
Finding the weird and the wonderful:
We wandered into the eerie Jesuit College, a museum with a puzzling art mystery, a world-class botanical garden, and a Plantação de Ananás.
Contents
- Where is Ponta Delgada?
- Jesuit College: Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas
- Botanical Garden
- Pineapple Plantations
- Places to Eat
- Açores – Previous Posts
(Links to older Açores posts here: West-End Wonders, and Eastside)
Where is Ponta Delgada?
Ponta Delgada is the capital of the Açores archipelago, an autonomous region of Portugal.
| From Eastern US/ e.g. Boston | From UK/London | From Portugal/Lisbon |
| Distance: ~2,400 m/ ~3,860 km | Distance: ~1,560 m/ ~2,510 km | Distance: ~900 m/ ~1,450 km |
| Flight time: ~5-6 hours. | Flight time: ~3.5-4 hours. | Flight time: ~2-2.5 hours. |
Inexpensive direct flights can be found through SATA Air.
A walkabout through Old Town and the São Brãs Fortress
Jesuit College: Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas
Dating back to the 1500s, this imposiing structure is a museum filled with mosaics, gold, and religious art.
A Mystery Art Story
The painting below has a curious story. A Coroação da Virgem (The Virgin’s Coronation), created in 1604 by Portuguese artist Vasco Pereira Lusitano, was hidden until 1973, concealed by a replica encased in an elaborate frame.
After hanging for centuries, the piece was removed in 1973 for the church’s restoration. Once removed it was found the elaborate frame was actually a wooden case holding a well-preserved, original version of the same painting. Both are oil on wood.
An inscription indicated that Lusitano finished the original painting in 1604 in Seville. It has been restored and considered one of his most important works.
You can view both; the original hangs in the nave and the copy is in a side chapel. The difference is clear: the figures in the replica are simplistic, while the original is detailed and elegant.
Botanical Garden
Near city center is Jose do Canto Botanical Garden, established in the 1800s and recognized by UNESCO. It is slightly unkempt but features impressive specimens. The garden’s highlights are the Moreton Bay Figs.
- Bamboo forest, 60 ft tall and
- Giant centuries old, twisted trees – the veterans of the garden
With over 3,000 plant species from all over the globe, we were surprised to spot Oklahoma’s humble Osage Orange tree, aka “Hedge Apple” (a throwback to my childhood).
Pineapple Plantations
Açorian Pineapples – oh, so sweet, and exquisite. It takes two years from flower to fruit. This is one of the few places in the world where pineapples are grown in greenhouses. There are two pineapple attractions in Ponta Delgada:
- The Pineapple Culture Interpretation Center explores pineapple culture with exhibits, media, and guided tours.
- Arruda Pineapple Plantation, the oldest on the island, has free self-guided tours of traditional greenhouses (about 10 minutes drive).
Places to Eat
| Ponta Delgada |
|---|
| Alcides – Steak Burger Supléxio – Outstanding Burgers Pedro Hombre – Drinks |
| Near Ribeira Grande |
|---|
| Breakfast with Goats – Rabo de Peixe Quinta da Sabores (Farm to Table) – Rabo de Peixe Volcanic Charming House (Brunch) The Restaurant of the São Miguel Agricultural Association (Steak) |
Açores – Previous Posts
Magical for tourists; divine for residents. Every corner of São Miguel offers wildly unique natural wonders. Links to older posts here:
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Travel Broadly - Marlene & Steve 
So happy to see this post pop up in my reader! Great examples (and photos) of, “you can’t make this stuff up!” Especially loved tiny Steve and also the hedge apples (oops – Osage Oranges).
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Thank you for lovely comments. Even Steve was awed by the photo….he had forgotten how giant the fig trees were there. “Tiny Steve” is perfect!
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Love your collections of adventures. Makes me feel like a slacker, lollygagging along in my quiet, predictable life. Do you ever run out of steam? Keep the capers comin’! I love them!
Fondly,
Glennie
Ms. Glenn (“Glennie”) Bowland
Cell: 415-419-4254
”Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.”
E.B. White
“Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest.”
Mark Twain
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Thank you, Glennie. I think you too always like to look for the wonderful…and the weird.
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Such stunning pictures! We’ve only stopped here briefly on a cruise excursion, but there is so much more to see! Thanks for the inspiration!!
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PD was ok…but get me out to the country side – east or west!
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