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Camino Portugués de Santiago – Why Walk? What’s it Like?

Intention of this blog: To explain “The Why of The Way“

My first Camino was in September 2025, and my second, 2026. Friends ask, “Why do it again?” For some, it is a nice, long walk; for others, the journey holds deeper meaning. The motivation is personal; but by the time you reach Santiago, it affects you whether you want it to, or not.

Map of the Camino Portugués Central Route from Valença to Santiago de Compostela, detailing distances between key locations and total distance of approximately 124 km.

So . . . What is it Like?

The Camino Portugués Central Route is an ancient walking route that winds through villages, fields, and woods. Some asphalt roads, stone paths, dirt trails, and cobblestones. Rain in Galicia is frequent, in September less likely.

The route is Valença, Portugal, to Santiago de Compostela, Spain – 124 km (78 miles). I did NOT carry my possessions on my back. It is “Camino by car”, transporting daily to hotels. Why do this? For me it’s enjoying new things, leaving routine, habits and apathy behind.

Two smiling women posing for a selfie in front of a directional sign with a yellow shell symbol, indicating a path.
A winding stone pathway through a lush green forest, with trees surrounding the scene and a shallow stream on one side.
Two shadow figures on a wall depicting a child running with a balloon and a hiker with a backpack.
A woman in a light blue jacket and cap stands by a stone wall on a foggy bridge, surrounded by mist and greenery.
A scenic view of a stone bridge over calm water, reflecting colorful buildings and a clear blue sky.
A narrow dirt path lined with lush greenery and overhanging foliage, leading into a shaded area.
A dirt path winding through a tree-lined area, with greenery on either side and sunlight filtering through the leaves.
A person standing under a vine canopy along a dirt path in a vineyard, surrounded by lush greenery and autumn foliage.
A group of hikers walking along a dirt trail in a lush green forest, surrounded by dense foliage and trees.
A scenic pathway meandering through lush greenery, flanked by trees and shrubs, under a partly cloudy blue sky.

No mountain to cross; nonetheless, ascents and descents are steep.

Elevation profile graph for Caminho Português (Galicia) showing varying elevation in meters over distance in kilometers, highlighting key points along the route.
Screenshot

How Do You Know Where to Go?

Follow the shell to Santiago. For centuries, the scallop shell has symbolized the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. The shells and yellow arrows mark the path. A scallop shell dangling from your pack is evidence you are a pilgrim (peregrino), not a tourist.

Directional sign indicating two routes: left at 70 meters with a 15% incline, and right at 360 meters with a 5% incline.
Navigational signpost along a walking path indicating directions to Santa Marta and Conxo, featuring stone markers with yellow arrows and scallop shell symbols.
A wooden sign indicating 'Comunidade de Montes' and 'Xaxadoide: Chan das Pitas', with a stone sculpture on a post featuring a blue and yellow symbol and an arrow pointing right, amidst a natural forest setting.
A pathway marked by a blue sign with a yellow emblem, indicating direction amidst lush green grapevines and clear blue sky.
A stone marker with a blue painted background featuring a yellow sunburst symbol, adorned with grape vines and leaves on top, set against a lush green landscape.
A stone marker featuring a yellow scallop shell design on a blue background, adorned with small colorful stones, and a seashell with handwritten notes.
A wooden crate filled with white scallop shells tied with red ribbons, displayed alongside a woven basket of additional shells.

Buen Camino! (Good Way)

One of my favorite things is hearing “Buen Camino” or “Bom Caminho” from walkers and locals. (I still have the urge to say it to people I pass.) A simple greeting, “good journey” and you feel like part of something bigger. Pilgrims look out for each other, having a common purpose – getting to Santiago.

A sign with various country flags including the UK, China, Sweden, Romania, and Basque, featuring phrases in English, Chinese, and Swedish, with graffiti markings.
A multilingual sign featuring various national flags and greetings related to travel, including 'Buen Camino' in Spanish, 'Bom Caminho' in Portuguese, and other expressions in different languages.

Carry Something With You and Then Let it Go.

When did my Camino become more than just a walk? Seeing mementos left behind by pilgrims—a photo, old eyeglasses, handwritten messages, ribbons, each carried a story. For some, it’s a way of remembering; for others, letting go of burdens carried for too long.

The Camino is more than miles walked and places passed through. It becomes personal in unexpected ways.

A stone cross statue stands in the foreground with two horses grazing in a misty field, surrounded by lush greenery and rolling hills under a cloudy sky.
A small shrine featuring a colorful image of a figure, surrounded by shells, stones, and various postcards on a textured stone surface.
A Camino de Santiago milestone indicating 'Km 96.400' with an arrow pointing left, surrounded by greenery. Next to it, there is a decorative stone cross adorned with various items including flags, photographs, and mementos left by pilgrims.
A wooden display covered with colorful ribbons and tokens stands against a stone wall near a building, with a street sign visible above.

Cruceiros – Crosses

Large stone crosses (cruceiros) guide travelers, mark holy ground, and honor lost lives. Many are carved with Mary facing the sea and Christ facing the earth. The oldest date back to the 14th century, the majority from the 16th and 18th centuries, and some are modern.

A weathered stone crucifix featuring a figure of Jesus on the cross, with intricate carvings and moss growth, against a clear blue sky.
1764 – 250 years old
A weathered stone sculpture depicting two figures, one climbing a cross, atop a column with intricate carvings, against a clear blue sky.
60 years old
A stone sculpture depicting two figures on a column, surrounded by green leaves and a clear blue sky.
14th Century – 700 years old

Collecting Stamps

During the last 100 kilometers to Santiago, it is necessary to collect two stamps each day. Stamps (selos) came from café vendors, artists, and musicians. Each holds a memory.

A smiling man sitting on a chair outdoors, sporting bracelets and a casual outfit, gestures peace with one hand while holding paperwork in the other, surrounded by a display of colorful art supplies and various items on a table.
A pilgrim's credential pamphlet featuring various stamps from locations along the Camino de Santiago, with the title 'Credencial de Peregrinos Santiago de Compostela' displayed prominently.
A man working at a table in an outdoor setting, crafting jewelry. There are various colorful pendants displayed on the table, along with tools and materials for making them. Several people are gathered around, and drinks are visible in the background.
A man sitting at a table outdoors, engaged in a craft or repair activity, surrounded by various tools and materials, with greenery in the background.
A man working at a cluttered table with various tools and materials, illuminated by a desk lamp, in a colorful room with a decorative mural.
A cluttered artist's workspace filled with paintbrushes, paint palettes, and various art supplies, with a person mixing paint in the foreground.

A Compostela – An Official “I walked” Document

A Compostela is the official document (written in Latin) that recognizes the completion of the pilgrimage to the tomb of the Apostle Saint James. A second document (in Spanish) certifies the distance walked.

Two decorative certificates on a white surface, featuring colorful borders and illustrations of saints. The left certificate bears a name and date, while the right certificate has a different design and also includes a name and signatures.

The end point is 0 km in Praza do Obradoiro, outside the Cathedral.

Two women posing in front of a grand, historic building with intricate architecture and tall towers, surrounded by other tourists enjoying a sunny day.
2025
Milestone with a yellow shell emblem, indicating 'Km 0' and pointing towards Santiago with a yellow arrow.
A couple poses for a photo in front of a large, ornate building with intricate architecture in a sunny plaza, surrounded by other visitors.
2026

Upon presenting credencials at the Pilgrim Office, our group received our Compostelas. By day’s end, a total of 3,779 fellow pilgrims had arrived.

A group of six hikers posing together on a charming street lined with traditional buildings, smiling and wearing outdoor gear, with a sunset backdrop.
Group selfie of six hikers smiling on a trail with a scenic landscape in the background.
Interior view of the Cathedral showcasing the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James with decorative details, a candle holder, and a message indicating the arrival of 3779 pilgrims on September 24.

Finally, the Cathedral of Saint James

The Cathedral was consecrated in 1211 with additions built between 1739 and 1750.

Front view of a grand, ornate cathedral with multiple spires and detailed sculptures against a blue sky with clouds.

Pilgrims queue to go behind the altar to embrace the statue of Saint James. After miles of walking, the hug is an offer of gratitude for a safe and successful trip. (See hands hugging Saint James below.)

Ornate architectural facade featuring sculptures and intricate detailing against a clear blue sky.
A richly decorated altar with intricate golden carvings, featuring angelic figures and ornate statues, in a historic church interior.
A detailed statue of a religious figure, adorned with a silver robe and a crown, surrounded by decorative angelic figures.

And then, at the Pilgrim Mass the next day . . . this happened:

The giant Botafumeiro (incense burner) hangs from the central dome of the Cathedral by a system of pulleys. Eight men are needed to hoist it. It does not swing at every Pilgrim’s mass, but it did at ours in 2025. (View video in FULLSCREEN).

It is over 5 feet tall, 220 pounds when packed with incense. When swinging, the arc reaches heights of 68 feet (20m) at about 42 mph. (68 km/h).

Interior of a cathedral with high arches and a large round window, filled with light and smoke. A large incense burner is suspended from the ceiling, while a crowd of people, some holding smartphones, watches an event.
Interior of a grand church filled with people, observing a religious ceremony involving a swinging thurible emitting smoke.
Close-up of a gold and ornate altar featuring angels and a central hanging incense burner.

Has the Botafumeiro ever fallen? “July 25, 1499: During a visit by Infanta Catalina of Aragon, the rope snapped and the massive censer flew completely out of the cathedral through the Platerías door.” Per Google AI

Planning Your Own Camino…

Camino means “path” or “way”. The Camino de Santiago started in the 9th century and became an important medieval pilgrimage route by the 11th–12th centuries.

There are over 280 Camino de Santiago routes across 29 European countries. Most, but not all, lead to Santiago de Compostela, the traditional destination at the tomb of Saint James.

Map showing various walking routes in Europe, highlighting the Camino Portuguese to Santiago and the destination of Santiago de Compostela.

Popular Long Routes

  • Camino Francés: 800 km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France.
  • Camino Portugués (from Porto): aprox 300 km.

To Be Continued:

  • Things we saw
  • Sights and Surprises Along The Way
  • Combarro – A Most Delightful Village
  • Walking in Northwestern Spain (Galicia)

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