I haven’t shared my favorite hiking story from Madeira (Dec 2023) because most of the famous trail (PR1) closed in 2024 due to devastating wildfires. It’s expected to reopen in April 2026 and I’m hoping to hike it again!
The Verada do Areeiro is a challenging trail with its “stairway to heaven” (and hell). It is a mountain ridge trail with insane panoramas, aka Pico to Pico (Peak to Peak). Below: The trail starts at the summit near the Areeiro Observatory,


The Start
The Vereda do Areeiro (Areeiro/Arieiro – pronounced Ah-ree-ay-roo) connects Pico do Areeiro and Pico Ruivo. Start at 5,900 ft, descend to 4,890 ft, ascend to Pico Ruivo, 6,109 ft. The one-way distance is 6.1 km (3.8 miles), round trip 12.2 km (7.6 miles).
If I Can Do It . . .
On a sunny morning, my goal is to reach “the stairway to heaven” at 1.2 km and then decide whether to continue.

Vamas La! Let’s Go!
A stone path leads downward. It undulates along narrow ridges with significant stair sections. The narrow rock steps at The Stairway to Heaven are steep, risky, and exposed.



My goal is met. I’ve climbed the Stairway to Heaven. Am I ready to go back? (See a glimpse of the observatory/starting point in the photo above). I meet hikers struggling up the steep stairs I just descended, and I think, “I don’t know what’s ahead of me, but I do not want climb those again!” It’s decided: I’m going to Pico Ruivo.
Uphill Both Ways
Eventually descent begins with countless stone steps and a rocky path to the lowest point. Going down 300 m (1,000 ft) is beautiful but requires careful footwork.





Hiking along cliffside paths and through tunnels is my nirvana. (Not for those with a fear of heights or vertigo.)


The inevitable upward walk begins at 4.0 km. Switchbacks, tunnels, ledges, and rocky terrain culminate in a demanding series of steep metal stairs. (This is a “stairway to hell” for round trip hikers.) I am grateful for the occasional guardropes.



At this point, the final ascent to Pico Ruivo is tough because I am buggered. Others doggedly pass me, and together we all reach Madeira’s highest peak (6,109 ft). A moment to savor at the PR1 endpoint. The final challenge is how to get to your ride.




Getting to Your Car/Home – A Dilemma
If you parked your car at Areerio, there’s no easy way back. From Pico Ruivo you have two choices:
- Round trip is a monster (Areeiro – Ruivo – Areeiro) retracing the stairways and elevations, an 8 hour experience for an average hiker.
- Or, after coming down from Pico Ruivo, turn from PR1 onto PR1.2. The spur adds 2.3 km from Ruivo to Achada do Teixeira. My one-way time (Areeiro-Ruivo-Achada do Teixeira) was 5 hours, approximately 6 miles with an elevation gain of 3,133 ft.


PR 1.2 – Spur to Achada do Teixeira
The carpark and cafe at Achada do Teixeira (distant in the photo) is where you can meet your pre-scheduled service. Or snag an unengaged taxi – be prepared for a hefty fare. Driving distances: Achada do Teixeira to Pico Areeiro is 90 minutes; to Funchal is 1 hour.





Footnotes (links)
- IFCN WEBSITE – Check this link for trail status.
- SIMplifica / Passes – Hiking permits are required.
- Pico to Pico Hike Transfer or Get To Hikes – Pre-book a transfer service.
Other Madeira Posts – Links:
- Sao Vicente and the Rugged North
- Paul Do Mar Southwest Madeira
- Funchal and PR8 São Lourenço
- Madeira – New Year’s Eve and Christmas
CLICK HERE for my blog archive and photo gallery
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wow!!!! Great info and stunning photos ( as always from your journeys ) Are you doing it again this year ???? Greets from the Netherlands
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What adventure and achievement! Congrats! Well done trip and review.
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Gorgeous photos! Very helpful info for those who want to do this route! You should post a link on a Madeira FB hiking group.
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